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How to...Coffee?

The Rise of Specialty Coffee in Italy and a Look at the Best Cafés

Ordering a coffee is no longer a quick activity to be done at the counter while responding to an email or a work call. Now, even ordering a coffee requires taking your time. And so, between single origins, blends, fermentations, and the like, coffee culture has become a subject of study for both gourmets and casual enthusiasts.

What are specialty coffees?

Specialty coffee originated in America in the 1970s with the intention of raising awareness about the quality of this beverage. To be defined as specialty, the coffee must meet specific standards both in tasting and in the production process. Among these, it must certainly be of the Arabica variety, which is more aromatic and contains less caffeine. Farmers are also extremely attentive to the quality of cultivation, preferring hand-picking methods and processing without the use of machinery. This not only makes the coffee better but is also a sustainable practice perfect for preserving the environment.

And if the quality of the raw material is an important prerequisite, its preparation becomes crucial in making an excellent coffee. From the light roasting of the beans to their grinding - done on the spot - to the water temperature and the amount of coffee used. Nothing is left to chance when it comes to preparing a specialty coffee. The only step that can, indeed should, follow personal taste is the extraction method: whether it's Espresso, Chemex, V60, Aeropress, or Cold Brew, it's up to you and your desire to experiment.

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Something has changed in Italy too

Bitter coffee aficionados may be horrified, but fortunately, the era of full-bodied, burnt coffee shots gulped down in one sip is seeing its end. In its place, a ritual around this world has taken root in Italy, involving calm and awareness. A paradox, some might think. I say it is a great resource. Not surprisingly, the historic Lavazza brand has decided with 1895 by Lavazza to invest in specialty coffee. The line is dedicated exclusively to the selection and processing of single origins and micro-lots. But let's now see what other happy oases can truly give us the pleasure of enjoying excellent coffee.

To honor my Piedmontese blood, this roundup could only start from Turin, the city where I live. Here, the concept of specialty and single-origin coffee is something we began to familiarize ourselves with in 2016 when Maurizio Galliano established Dropstery, a bespoke roastery where the best specialty coffees from selected plantations are processed. The coffees can still be purchased directly from the roastery, or enjoyed at their own patisserie, Gocce di Cioccolato.

Maurizio's case set an example for many other establishments that have emerged and thrived over the years, starting with Orso Laboratorio Caffè and Mara dei Boschi, which serves the same specialty coffees it selects and roasts at its Ialty roastery in Barolo.

Moving south, we see that research, care, and dedication remain consistent. Caffè Terzi in Bologna demonstrates this, where drinking single-origin Jamaican and Colombian coffees is done with the same meticulousness as sipping a Chianti. Just beyond, Ditta Artigianale, a roastery founded by the multi-award-winning barista champion Francesco Sanapo and Patrick Hoffer, has been making Florence a mecca for genre enthusiasts since 2013.

In selecting some of the most interesting entities in this landscape in Italy, I could not miss mentioning Milan, always at the forefront when it comes to introducing broad changes and innovations. Here, from more traditional places like Bar Affori to more experimental ones like Cafezal, Orsonero, and Nowhere, to name a few, there is no shortage of choices when it comes to drinking an excellent single-origin coffee.

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Although it took a bit longer to catch on, even the capital now offers some gems in the specialty coffee sector. Among these is Faro - Luminari del Caffè, which since opening has continued to amaze with endless varieties of coffee from Italy and abroad, along with numerous extraction methods, all explained with passion and devotion.

Last but not least is Naples. The home of Robusta and dark roasting, however, also preserves two niche entities where coffee takes on a whole new flavor. The first is Ventimetriquadri, true to its name. A small coffee shop where you can taste many products from artisanal Italian and European roasteries. Completing the picture is Campana Bottega di Caffè Speciali, an artisanal roastery that has made "home-roasted beans" its true flagship.

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In recent years, with increasingly knowledgeable baristas and curious consumers, fertile ground has been created for the birth and development of excellent specialty coffee shops throughout Italy. A network of entities working closely with producers and roasters, shortening the supply chain and making traceability clear and transparent. Only this way can we truly say we are making good coffee.